Textile Certification: Your Complete Guide
It’s important to know about fabric certification if you are a designer or business owner wanting to deliver a world-class experience. For this reason, we have created an easy guide with all the information you need to know.
Finding out about the different certifications will make you savvy enough to choose the right fabric base for every project.
Making the World a More Sustainable Place with Textile Certification
maake has compiled a simple glossary of the top fabric certifications and standards you should be aware of for your UK business.
Each certification tests the fabric within its own parameter, and knowing these parameters can help you select the right fabric base for your project. This can be achieved by getting familiar with the various sustainable textile exchange standards and regulations applied to our industry.
Every fabric certification considers different elements of sustainability and wellbeing, so you need to know which is the correct one for your project.
Two of the Most Important Organic Textile Standards
Two top fabric certifications are vital to fabric production.
First on the list is the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). This standard guarantees a textile’s sustainability.
It covers the manufacturing process, from the moment we harvest the raw material all the way through to the final product.
The second essential fabric certificate is OEKO-TEX. Seventeen independent research and test institutes in Europe and Japan focus on the fabric and leather industries. These institutions are all involved in testing these resources for OEKO-TEX.
They support the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) compiled by the United Nations to achieve a better and more environmentally aware future and improve the environment.
Note: We take these certification standards very seriously. We believe in Fairtrade and supporting sustainable practices in all elements of our supply chain.
All of our fabric sourcing is from REACH-compliant mills locally and internationally that maintain a level of quality in terms of child labour, ecology, and responsibility.
Corporate Social Responsibility & Global Fabric Certifications & Standards
Understanding a fabric’s specifications and standards development is vital for purchasing quality fabric products for your business.
There is a specific reason for each of these standards. They guarantee that we have followed certain rules about the fabric’s production and have met social responsibility standards.
Most importantly, if you use these certifications, the industry is likely to trust your business.
maake believes in sustainability, and we hope you do, too. This is why we provide credible assurance that the textiles we offer and the printing methods we use are eco-friendly.
Let's be socially responsible together.
The Full Standard Textiles Certification List
Here is the complete UK fabric certification standards list, with explanations of exactly what each one means:
Flammability
Business owners who want to reduce the risk of fire do everything in their power to reduce it. To do this, you must persist in using products that are certified by BS5867 Part 2 Type B and C standards.
Crib 5
A Crib 5 certificate is the official document that proves that your fabric has passed the rigorous Crib 5 test.
Interestingly, the fabric industry is not the only industry that uses the Crib 5 test. People use this test for other products made from fabric, like curtains, cushions, sofas and other pieces of furniture.
To pass UK Fire Regulations, we have three tests for textiles and furniture. If they pass these three tests, the textiles are classified as Crib 5 compliant. These tests are specially designed to prevent the outbreak of fire in everyday life.
Test One: The Smouldering Cigarette Test
Fires caused by cigarettes are a huge concern in the UK. According to the London Fire Brigade, smoking is the most common cause of fire fatalities.
To pass the test, one places a lit cigarette along the crevice of a test rig created out of textiles. The cigarette burns for its entire length. If the rig doesn’t catch alight or smoulder, the material passes the test, and it's time for you to try the second test.
Test Two: The Match Test
The match Test (code number BS EN 5972) works much the same way as the smouldering cigarette test. The test works by holding a lit match alongside a crevice of the testing rig for 20 seconds before removing it.
To pass the test, no flames may appear, and the fabric won't smoulder. If this is the case, one can record the test: “No Ignition,” which indicates the material has passed the test.
Do the first two tests. If the fabric passes them, it's time for the Crib 5 test. If materials don’t pass these first two tests, they do not move on.
Test Three: Crib 5
This tests upholstery and furniture coverings. First you build a small crib-like structure. To make it, you glue wooden planks together. The crib must be five tiers high; that's how it gets its name, 'Crib 5'.
A step further is the Crib 7, which tests materials for prison cells and high-risk environments. For the test, you must attach lint and the fabric to the bottom of the Crib 5 structure. Now add a non-flammable liquid ('propanediol'), which increases absorption. Light the testing unit with a match. You will know that the fabric has passed the test if the fabric and the Crib don't catch alight or smoulder.
It's essential to check the outer cover and the interior material of the crib.
If it does not ignite or smoulder, and the flames extinguish themselves within 10 minutes, the material passes the test.Remember: different textiles burn at various rates. From that, we know that their natural fire resistance varies. You can treat many materials to stop flames from spreading.
During this test, the fabric still burns because we treat only the back of the material. You'll see how the treated area acts as a firewall when the flames burn through the surface of the fabric.
Flame Retardant for Upholstery
There are three main ways that fabric may become fire retardant. For this test, use only fabric made from fire retardant yarns, such as wool. This is the best solution, as it does not affect the fabric’s drape and natural feel.
If you're using upholstery fabric, use material treated with a fire retardant under-coating. This stiffens the fabric somewhat and makes it suitable for many upholstery applications.
Note: The fire retardant backing is not ideal for curtains, as the stiff backing affects the material's drape.
A third method is available, called 'chemical dipping'. Manufacturers use it for textiles made from natural fibres or those with a high proportion of natural fibres.
FR (Flame Resistant)
Synthetic fibres are mostly flame resistant (FR). These materials resist ignition under prolonged exposure to flame or heat. These FR fabrics are 'inherently flame-retardant fabrics' and don't burn. What happens to them is that they start to melt.
The degree of inherently flame-resistant fibres within a flame-resistant fabric can vary widely from just a few percent of the fibres to a full construction, depending on the manufacturer.
Trevira is a well-known trade brand name for inherently flame-retardant yarns used in many FR textiles. The amount of permanent flame-resistant fibres found in a flame-resistant fabric can vary widely from a few percent to 100%, depending on the manufacturer.
Chemical Tests
EN71-3
The EN71-3 fabric certification shows whether a fabric has undergone a special independent test to ensure it meets EN71-3 requirements.
This certification shows the fabric meets European safety standards.
EN71 part 3 regulation relates to the chemical properties of fabric.
Oeko-tex®
This certification is one of the more well-known. It enables businesses and consumers to make responsible decisions to help protect our planet’s resources for future generations.
The fabric certificates and testing process on which these standards are based guarantees maximum consumer welfare in raw material.
STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX is one of the most famous global certification standards.
It is one of the best-known labels for textiles, and tests for harmful substances. It stands for customer confidence and ensuring that products are extremely safe.
In the certification test, numerous regulated and non-regulated substances, which may be harmful to human health, are tested.
In many cases, the limit values for the STANDARD 100 certification reach beyond national and international requirements.
Therefore, to update the criteria, the catalogue statutory requirements are tested at least once a year. This is because new scientific knowledge is too important to be ignored.
Designers and business owners must keep updated and refresh their knowledge on the topic.
Any respected supplier will be able to help you and inform you on the topic, so don't be shy: ask away until you ensure your product has the right certification.
It is difficult for fashion manufacturers and customers to understand the legal implications concerning harmful substances. Experts from certification institutes are there to do this for you.
REACH
If you want to be health- and welfare-compliant, you have to apply for a REACH registration number, which is issued by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA).
Ask yourself, does your business use chemicals in its printing process?
If so, you must register these substances under EU REACH, especially if the volume of the chemical you’re using is more than 1 ton per year (t/y).
Read more about REACH registration or the REACH registration number here.
Here's an important fact: You must ensure that none of the components used in making the fabric are on the REACH list of restricted substances or on the list of very high concern (SVHC).
Knowledgeable consumers are wary of purchasing items that don’t have these certifications.
Read more about the REACH SVHC list of very high concern (SVHC) or the REACH restriction list.
Sedex
Sedex is one of the world’s leading ethical trade organisations. They work together to assist global businesses improve their working conditions. To become a member, just sign up on the Sedex website.
Their comprehensive online services and tools assist members to operate their businesses sustainably, protect their employees and source their material ethically.
Companies work together through Sedex to conduct their businesses ethically. To achieve this, they work on an environmental level.
Approximaely 60,000 member organisations from over 180 countries use the Sedex platform. These organisations include several famous brands as well as those renowned for their extremely high ethical standards.
The member organisations affiliated to Sedex offer support in their own countries, which include the UK, Latin America, China, Australia and the US. The organisation aims “to exchange data, manage business risk, meet compliance and drive positive effect on people”.
Sustainability Certifications
GOTS
This is the leading global fabric certification for organic fibres in textile production. It includes ecological and social criteria, and is backed by independent certification of the entire fabric supply chain.
The standard ensures that no harmful chemicals have been used in the manufacturing process.
There is no denying that environmental issues and welfare head the list for certification.
This fabric certification also considers farming and the farmer's working conditions, which is why it's one of our favourite certifications.
One of the most common fabric standards, it indicates that fabric processors and fashion manufacturers can export their fabrics and garments.
Every major market accepts the textiles’ global organic certification.
Consumers can also choose truly organic products sourced from green supply chains.
Workers check the fabric to ensure no chemicals are being used. They firstly ensure it is safe for humans and then consider whether it affects animal welfare.
And they insist on ensuring that farmers’ working conditions are decent.
GOTS sets the standards for fabric processing, fashion manufacturers and suppliers, which is why it is the most important fabric exchange certification body in the world. When a fabric receives this certification, it’s guaranteed organic and can be exported.
Every major global market accepts this certification. GOTS ensures that products are sourced from a ‘green’ supply chain.
Interestingly, some organic materials have not been certified by GOTS.
Many maake fabrics have this organic certification. See our fabric list for the latest specifications. We print all cotton and organic cotton fabrics with inks that are certified to meet these regulations.
REPREVE
REPREVE is the world's leading recycled fibre made for the good of tomorrow.
REPREVE is the top, most trusted, branded performance fibre made from recycled materials (including plastic bottles).
As billions of plastic bottles end up in landfills every year, this certification ensures we can do something constructive and sustainable about them by converting them into fabric.
GRS
GRS, which stands for the Global Recycle Standard, is a global organisation that offers over 200 different certification programmes.
Their focus is on setting global, voluntary ethical standards on the recycled content of a company’s products and resources.
These certifications also cover your company's recycled goods in other ways.
They focus on good working conditions and offer certain chemical restrictions. This is to decrease the risk of contamination.
GRS covers over 50 companies including those manufacturing products that have undergone spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing, printing, ginning and stitching.
The GRS network is based in over 70 countries worldwide.
Fabric Durability Testing
There are several hundred tests that measure fabric under various conditions. These include washing, light exposure, pilling, yarn strength, stretch, etc.
We have prepared a summary of the main tests that may affect your selection of fabrics, depending on your project needs.
Light Fastness 1-7
LLightfastness is a property of a colourant (a dye or pigment). To determine if the dye will fade, the fabric is tested and exposed to light.
Right, let’s discuss what light-fastedness means.
Manufacturers use dyes and pigments to dye fabrics, plastics and other materials. We also use them to manufacture paints and printing inks. You can bleach the colour of a fabric if you use special processing that involves ultraviolet radiation. This alters the chemical structure of the molecules and colours the product.
The name of the particular molecule that changes the colour is the 'chromophore'.
Now, when a painted surface comes into contact with light, it changes or breaks the pigment's chemical bonds. This contact causes the colours to bleach or change in a process known as photodegradation.
To call a fabric 'lightfast', it mustn’t react to this effect.
The sun’s electromagnetic spectrum contains wavelengths from gamma waves to radio waves. The high energy of ultraviolet radiation accelerates the process of the dye fading.
To certify textiles, we measure lightfastness by exposing a sample to light for a predefined period. Then we compare it to an unexposed sample.
The Martindale is a unit that quantifies textiles’ abrasion resistance, so we use it particularly to test upholstery resources. People often call the Martindale method 'the Martindale rub test'. This test copies the natural wear of a seat cover by rubbing the fabric sample against a standard abrasive surface with a particular force.
The test is undertaken in intervals of 5,000 cycles, totalling the wear number (unit: Martindale) of abrasion cycles that leads to the material being worn to a specified degree. The higher the value, the more resistant the material is to abrasion.
Wash Fastness
Washing or soaping fastness refers to the degree the colour of dyed fabric changes after you wash it with a washing liquid.
The test involves using a grey graded sample card as the evaluation standard. This means measuring the colour difference between the original sample and the faded sample.
All the fabric we use at maake has been sourced from global REACH-compliant mills that maintain a level of quality in terms of child labour, ecological impact, and responsibility.
Let maake Assist
Now it's time to visit our website and discover our base fabrics.
Explore our extensive range of base textiles to see their certifications.
If you have any queries about our fabric resources and/or fabric printing services, contact us and we will assist you. You can also contact us by email, hello@maake.com.
Glossary
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