Exploring Allauric’s Visionary MA Collection

At maake, one of our most rewarding tasks is collaborating with emerging designers who are pushing the boundaries of creativity and sustainability.

We recently had the privilege of working with Laura Lambert, an MA student whose creative thesis collection combines modular zero-waste design, sacred geometry, pure hemp textiles, and visionary art prints in an otherworldly exploration of sustainable fashion. It really is otherworldly: her inspiration is "fashion for ancient aliens, a niche I felt was missing from the creative expression of the fashion I love to wear and see at transformational events like Burning Man."

Her collection, called Allauric, was inspired by sacred symbols, mythologies, and a desire to create a fashion culture rooted in imagination rather than appropriation. Combining ancient draping techniques with modern utilitarian design, Allauric reimagines what sustainable fashion can look like – futuristic, symbolic, and deeply original.

maake was honoured to help bring Laura's vision to life by custom-printing on pure hemp knit, a first-of-its-kind project for us. The result was even more stunning than we imagined, and it reminded us why supporting innovation in eco-textiles is so important.

Here, Laura shares the inspiration behind her work, her experience printing with maake, and her hopes for a sustainable fashion future.

What inspired your MA collection, and its modular, zero-waste approach?

"My modular design approach was inspired by my study of sacred geometry. For my undergrad degree, I explored using the hexagon as a basis for my silhouette and how I can dress the body in the ancient symbol called the 'Merkaba', a sacred geometric symbol with ancient roots in mysticism, spirituality, and metaphysics. It is believed to be a divine vehicle that connects the human body to higher consciousness and spiritual realms."

"Through my studies for my MA in sustainable fashion and my first-hand experience in design development, I became increasingly aware of the waste issue in pre-consumer garment manufacturing, a result of off-cuts from traditional pattern drafting. I read Holly McQuillan's book, Zero Waste Fashion Design, and integrated my undergrad thesis to develop my own technique.

"I used CLO3D digital modelling software to test my concept of cutting geometric shapes from a master pattern of tessellated hexagons, which can be further cut into triangles and polygons from the fabric. I used the pieces like a puzzle to create garments designed through my visual research and sketchbook work. Working on the digital design software drastically cuts down on the paper and fabrics used to make samples, and is much faster.

What story or message do your art prints hope to convey?

"The print on the fabric was provided by UK-based visionary artist Harry Pack, who I met during the Alex Grey immersive exhibit at Illusionarie in London this summer. Both our creative processes involve exploring human consciousness through fantasy, spirituality, and the psychedelic experience. 

"As a brand concept, Allauric was born out of my personal study of Joseph Cambel's Power of Myth and Symbol as well as Jungian archetypes. Also, combined with my concept of aliens in my MA study, I explored cultural appropriation in modern fashion, and decided to create a fashion culture of my own imagination by combining ancient draping with modern utilitarian design. Harry's artistic point of view and tile designs fit my vision and worked perfectly with my modular design approach."

What was your experience printing with maake?

"I could not have brought this vision to life without maake's assistance. When I contacted them about the project, they were enthusiastic about printing on pure hemp knit. I was overjoyed when I got the email that my fabric was ready. It turned out better than I could have imagined. 

"As a student with limited resources, I  also appreciated the 'no minimum' policy and the ability to test samples for my proof of concept, and with looming deadlines because of Design Week, the fast turnaround was crucial. I will recommend maake to other students as a local option for their work.

"When I presented the project at Design London Shoreditch as part of my graduate exhibit, people were amazed that it was digitally printed. Someone from the London Screen Printing Association was awestruck by the clarity of the digital print. An artisanal block printing company from India was also impressed and thought it resembled their block prints. 

"I prefer to use the digital printing method with the eco-friendly dyes provided by maake, as it is the most environmentally friendly way to print fabric. My tutors commented that the digitally printed pure hemp knit was a significant innovation in my work."

How do you see sustainability shaping your future brand?

"Sustainability and circularity is at the core of everything this brand produces. It's much easier to start with a business model where all aspects of a sustainable business are initially addressed, rather than trying to work it out later. With the proliferation of fast fashion and the looming climate crisis, as well as the global pollution and textile waste issue, there is no place for any brand that isn't sustainable.

"Our designs defy trends and are meant to be special pieces that spark joy and add value to the consumer. Using beautiful, all-natural fabrics with one-of-a-kind artist designs adds a unique touch to a wardrobe people can feel good about owning for years. It's fashion with a soul. When we use virgin materials, we ensure the source is regenerative and non-exploitative of Earth's resources. 

"The buckles and notions were also made by 3D printing a biodegradable Hemp PLA bioplastic to replace petroleum-based materials. (Read the maake guide to 3D printing here. They also compiled a comprehensive piece on Sustainable Fabric Dyeing & Textile Innovations that is worth taking a look at.)

Why did you choose pure hemp knit for your thesis collection, and how did this material perform in your designs?

"As part of my brand's ethos, which is regenerative fashion, I choose to work exclusively with 100% hemp textiles for their naturally regenerative qualities. Growing hemp crops significantly improves the land by rejuvenating the topsoil, which encourages the growth of beneficial soil microbes and improves biodiversity. This method also requires no pesticides or herbicides, uses 50% less water than cotton, produces more fibre than any other fibre-producing plant, and is a significant carbon sequestering crop.

"With all these amazing qualities, I only wanted pure hemp. Hempshop UK has a beautiful selection, but these are grey goods. The custom printing from maake made using hemp a reality. This material is very absorbent and porous and prints colour well, as we can see in the result.

"I chose to use knit fabric because of its soft hand, beautiful drape, and natural stretch. Hemp is a UV-resistant textile, antimicrobial (needs less washing), thermo-regulating, absorbent, breathable, and, with washing, it softens and improves wear. It also irons well, and wrinkles are easily smoothed out with some steam.

"Wearing knit fabric is cosy and comfortable. If we look around us we'll see that most people wear knits these days for trendy athleisure wear. The natural stretch works with the body's natural curves rather than restricting it. 

"The hemp knit worked out beautifully, especially with the rich colour and detail achieved from the digital print. The natural cream shade of the knit created a subtle, chic look that complemented the 'ancient-yet-modern' feel I was going for."

Are there other eco-textiles you’re excited to explore next?

"One of the coolest fabrics I discovered in my research was the HempShop UK's faux fur made with hemp! While it still uses a small percentage of recycled PET, it's a total game-changer when it comes to fur in fashion. I look forward to experimenting with it for Autumn and Winter looks. Hemp Silk blends are incredible, too. I used those exclusively in my undergrad collection.

"I'm really excited about knit made from algae, a wonderful regenerative source. The company, LivingInk, has developed an algae-based black dye for screen printing, which I've worked with in the past. C.Q. Studios in Stratford is using biowaste from food scraps to screen print dyes as well as eco-friendly sequins to add sparkle! 

"I would also like to work with leather alternatives made from mushrooms like Mylo and Pinatex, which is made of pineapple harvest biowaste. Bolt threads in Emeryville CA, where I'm from, developed Mylo and has also developed a lab-grown spider silk fibre used by Stella McCartney. (Read maake's blog on Alternative Leather. They also compiled a comprehensive piece on Sustainable Fabric Dyeing & Textile Innovations.)

"If i continue my education in a  PhD, I want to work with CBD hemp farmers to use their bio waste to develop a hemp-based alternative to polyester. The science is there, the investment is not – yet."

How does your work connect with the spirit of London Fashion Week?

"London fashion is all about breaking rules and thinking outside the box. There is a rebelliousness and edge in London design where my 'ancient-yet-modern' style with bold prints and underground roots is appreciated. This is why my US Art School sent me to Kingston Uni to study, as my style is ahead of its time when it comes to US fashion. 

"The British Fashion Council has recently announced that all emerging brands and designers must meet certain sustainability requirements before being accepted. They are actively trying to influence the fashion culture to be a more ethical space and I'm totally on board with their future vision of fashion.

" At least 60% of a collection must be made from certified materials (ie. GOTS for cotton, FSC for viscose) and designers are prohibited from using single-use plastics or unsustainable set designs in their presentations." 

For more information on Fabric Certification, read the comprehensive maake guide.

What’s next after graduation? Any plans for launching your label?

"I've kept up the momentum with a brand soft launch this summer. The hard launch will be in Summer 2027 at Psychedelic Science in Denver, and possibly Breaking Convention. I'll be writing a column for Lucid News, which previously wrote a piece about me.

"When London Design Week featured me on their website, they suggested I work with the Hackney Arts Council. I have a private show when my collection is completed later this year. I also have a digital CLO3D collection completed and will be finishing the runway samples over winter for a show this spring. I'm currently discussing with US investors and looking for Green VC's and art grants here to raise capital.  

"To start, there will be limited runs and local pop-ups in London at my Atelier, and production in 2027. To find out what I'm doing, one can join my fashion Jedi mailing list on my website.

Any advice for fellow fashion students exploring eco-conscious design?

"Eco-conscious design tends to put limitations on designers' materials-wise, but I believe this is a challenge for creatives to work within boundaries and be innovative in the space. Experiment and add your voice to the conversation; it wants to be heard.

"Upcycling is the future. Use the numerous charity shops and be creative by reusing discarded clothing. Use deadstock fabrics and reimagine them through custom printing and textile manipulations. (Read the maake guide to Deadstock Fabrics for some inspiration.)

"Take risks and stay true to your vision. Sustainable fashion has come a long way, and it doesn't just have to be 'hippie stuff' anymore. Young designers can rewrite the narrative and make eco-friendly clothing that's cool modern, fresh and chic."

Credits

For more information on the MA program at Kingston in Sustainable Fashion Business and Practices by Dr. Sass Brown, follow this link:

Https://www.kingston.ac.uk/study/postgraduate/sustainable-fashion-business-and-practices-ma 

The print Artist : @harrypackartand  

Creative Director: Laura Lambert

 @allauricdesigns

Hair/ MUA: Sarah-Jane Pucci

 @sarahjanepucci_mua

Model: Amber Dixon

 @amber_dixon.xx

Photographer: Liubomir Borissov

 @lewbomear

Videographer: Finn Paul

 @thefinnplelife

Fair trade Jewellery sourced locally through:

Urbiana, 156 Brick Lane, London, E1 6RU

@urbianauk