Jacket lining fabric: Everything you need to know about suits, jackets and coat lining

Looking for a suit for an important event? Is it an outfit for a wedding retinue? Perhaps the jacket is something to keep you cool or warm? Whatever the reason, ensure to take the jacket lining material into account.

maake gives you the lowdown on everything you need to know about jacket linings and suit lining fabric

What is jacket lining fabric?

Jacket lining is the second layer of material in a finished garment. One usually stitches the lining to the outer layer. We use lining for lining jackets, a coat, blazer, shirts and dresses. maake creates lining using material made from natural or synthetic fibres.

Lining material can be lightweight or heavier, depending on the season. Colours for jacket lining vary, too – from bright and solid to black and white, with a pattern, and everything in between. 

The most commonly used jacket lining types of fabrics include rPET, viscose and rayon. Natural fabrics like cotton and satin are also popular.

Why you should line jackets

• Blazers and other outer wear pieces for men and women are easier to slip on and off when they have lining. 
• Lining makes the jacket more wearable and durable.
• The jacket lasts longer. This is why manufacturers often like to line the jacket pocket, even if the rest of the jacket has no lining. 
• With lining, a jacket will be more comfortable.
• A jacket lining can hide wadding or padding that will give body to your garment.
• One can add weight to a jacket with lining; it will also give it a particular structure. 
• Choose a heavyweight material to line a jacket and make it warm.
• Lining in a jacket can keep you cool as well. To keep a jacket cool to wear we usually use less than full lining – this allows the lining and jacket material to breathe and keeps you cool.
• Material used for lining can create a better fit for an item of clothing.
• If a material is transparent, the lining can stop it from being transparent.
• Usually, the lining in a jacket is smooth and feels luxurious.
• The lining of a jacket hides every seam, the construction and raw edges.
• When choosing jacket lining, take special care, as lining can create a vast difference to the structure of the jacket, its comfort and durability, not to mention its style. 

Note:

It’s important to see whether your choice of lining material stretches or not. If you use cotton or wool to sew the jacket material, the jacket won't stretch. In this case, ensure you choose a jacket lining that doesn't stretch either. If you create the jacket using a stretchy material like jersey, tulle or stretch satin, you must ensure that the lining is stretchy, too.

Choosing jackets with or without lining

Lined garments

• A jacket with full lining – This type of jacket has lining on each sleeve, the back and side sections).
• The jacket with half lining – This type of jacket implies that you have used lining for most of the jacket, except for the bottom edges of the jacket. The lining protects the jacket but don’t add as much weight to the garment as when these garments have full lining. These often cost more than when the garments are completely lined, as the manufacturer has to ensure that no seams are showing.
• A part lined jacket – In such a case, we only line parts of the jacket such as the shoulder and each jacket sleeve. 

The difference between a jacket with lining and one without

Lined items

• When you sew lining into a jacket, it provides a second, extra layer, which protects the jacket and gives it more weight and structure.
• As the jacket lining is separate, one can replace, alter or fix it.
• An extra layer makes the jacket stronger and more hard wearing.
• Any lining will make the jacket warmer.
• Jacket lining adds protection to the inside of the jacket.
• It will also create a better-fitting jacket.
• The style and structure of the jacket will change with the extra weight of a lining.
• Above all, a jacket with lining fits better than one that has none.
• A jacket with lining will crease less easily.

No linings

• If you don't line the jacket, it is missing a second layer. So it will be cooler, which makes it a great choice for warm days.
• If you sew no inside lining, this means that the jacket is lighter.
• An unlined linen jacket is a definite plus in summer, as it's so much cooler – and requires less sewing on a machine!
• The fit of the jacket is more casual and comfortable when it has no lining.

The best fabrics to order

The most popular fabrics used for a jacket lining collection include silk, acetate, rPET and rayon. People choose jacket lining fabric for a different reason: some material lining may cause the jacket to drape better, while others are more breathable etc. You also need to take price into consideration when you choose lining fabric, as each of the lining fabrics available have different prices.

Natural fabrics

1.   Silk

Fabric for silk jacket lining is considered the most luxurious, because the material is soft, breathable, durable and also lightweight. This luxurious lining material is also smooth. Silk satin facing or silk cord facing can be sheer or semi-sheer, transparent, matte or shiny, depending on the weight of the fabric. We usually use this lining for winter wear. As they’re expensive and sumptuous, it’s important to take good care of them.

2.   Cotton

A breathable natural fibre that is washable and soft on the skin. It isn’t a slippery or static fabric, creases quickly and can shrink in the wash. It’s relatively inexpensive, too.

3.   Wool

Best for real winter lining, wool is warm, soft, breathable and insulates the body. Choose a material that doesn’t scratch and wash it carefully.

Synthetic or semi-synthetic fabrics

1.   Polyester

This is another great jacket lining material choice for those who want something that is extremely low cost. It’s also hard wearing and easy to look after. Also, people often use this textile to line jackets, as it doesn’t stain or crease easily. It’s soft, glossy and strong and doesn’t stretch or shrink. The material has a lovely lustre, too.

2.  Viscose and rayon

These are popular jacket lining choices. These fabrics are breathable, soft on the skin, drape well and are free of static. Note: this material tends to shrink after washing and creases easily. When you wet it, the fibres are weaker.

3.  Acetate

This material is not as shiny as rPET and its completely synthetic alternative, it doesn’t crease easily and draws moisture away from the body. Acetate is also a breathable material per metre and relatively inexpensive. However, the material isn’t as absorbent as other lining fabrics and is not as hard-wearing.

aterial isn’t as absorbent as other lining fabrics and is not as hard-wearing.

4.  Cupro

This man-made material looks and feels like silk. Manufacturers produce cupro from recycled plant-based cellulose fibres that they create out of cotton waste that is treated with chemicals. 

Similar to rayon, this material is semi-synthetic, silky, smooth and drapes beautifully. This versatile lining material is breathable, hard wearing and resistant to static. Often used as lining for woollen jackets, this lightweight textile is suitable for year-round wear.

Remember

When choosing or having to replace suit jacket lining fabric, ensure to think about how stretchable the jacket is. You need to use a lining material that stretches with your jacket shell material. So if someone makes your jacket from a stretch material, the lining must also be stretchy. And if you create it using a non-stretch textile, you can use a non-stretch lining, too.

Choosing fabric by weight

• Lightweight: This lightmaterial is great to use for blouses, dresses, skirts and pants created from delicate fabrics.
• Medium weight:Slightly heavier lining material that is extremely versatile. Fabrics in this category include rPET, taffeta, silk, satin facing etc. These textiles are ideal for lining jackets, pants and skirts.
• Heavyweight:Fabrics with a denser weave are heavier, more hard wearing and warm, making them perfect for lining a winter jacket. These heavy materials include twill, acetate, rPET, silk and satin. Fleece and quilted lining are both excellent choices as they provide extra warmth in very cold climates. 

maake’s choices for bespoke jacket linings

Lining: This 100% polyester material is the perfect accompaniment to any of our fabrics for lining garments and accessories. The material has a fantastic print, smoothness and durability. maake uses it as lining for many of our Saville Row tailor customers.

Faux Silky Satin: 100% polyester material that is the perfect alternative to natural silk. Offers a silkier lining choice.

Eco Taffeta:  An Eco Lining option, this material is 100% rPET. It’s a crisp, lightweight material. 
Summer Voile – A lightweight, semi-sheer textile with a soft handle. As it’s name tells you, it’s ideal for lining summer garments.

Eco Fleece: This semi-synthetic material – rPET – is a great winter lining choice. It’s warm, comfortable, versatile textile that is ideal for lining winter jackets.

Printing on synthetics and rPET 

We use no water in maake’s printing process for these materials. All the inks that we use meet Oeko-tex requirements and pass EN71-3 certification.

Read all about textile certification right here.

Fabric colours

Important tips to consider when choosing jacket lining colours:

1. Make sure that whatever colour lining you choose will complement the jacket and not overpower it. Your goal should be to create a jacket that is cohesive.
2. If you prefer an elegant, formal jacket, it’s important to match the colour of the lining material to the jacket itself.
3. If the jacket is dark, either match the material exactly, or choose a slightly lighter shade of f material for the lining.
4. A lightly coloured jacket can either have an exact colour match for lining material, or you could see that the lining complements the colour of the jacket by using a darker shade.
5. When you choose a colour for your jacket, blazer or coat lining, it’s best to look at the material in natural light to see its exact shade and brightness.
6. Bespoke jacket linings are usually chosen taking the wearer’s skin colour into consideration.

For a little inspiration on colour choices, read our informative guide on How colours affect our feelings.

Trends to consider

• The inner jacket lining is usually colour-coordinated to the material of the jacket. But if you decide to choose your own colour lining, remember: this will make the jacket more casual.
• A classic colour combination for a jacket is a dark grey jacket with purple jacket lining.
• A light grey jacket looks exceptional with blue lining, especially for spring. For winter, change it to silk facing black.
• Any blazer that you see with red lining will make an extremely bold statement.
• A selection of colour and pattern that is combined into stripes is particularly fashionable right now.
• Custom jacket lining is a trend this winter so shop for or create a bespoke jacket lining selection to stand out from the crowd and show the world that it’s uniquely yours.

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